Crochet Fan Hat - Choose Your Team Colors

My mom and sister are serious Seattle fans, so I crocheted them some newsboy hats for Christmas. I relied on the same pattern that I used for the Utes hats I made for my friends in August. This is my go-to pattern for gifts because these hats work up so quickly using bulky yarn and they look very cute. I also love this pattern because Lion Brand's Hometown USA yarn makes it easy to choose the right color combination to make a personal gift for any team fan. This post shows which colors I used to make a Seahawks fan hat (please refer to photos). I also added a few new tips that were not included in the Utes post.

Pattern

• Basic Newsboy Hat ($5 on Etsy by SimplyMadeByErin)

Supplies

Yarn (Super Bulky, #6)

Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn (100% acrylic)

• San Diego Navy (dark blue)
• Washington Denim (light blue)
• Monterey Lime
• Dallas Grey

Hooks

• J (6mm) and N (10mm)

Buttons 

• 23mm shank buttons 
• Belle Buttons by Dritz
  
• Antique silver carved swirl (Item #1829696, Jo-Ann online)
• Antique silver heart round (Item #1829779, Jo-Ann online)

Navy blue with antique silver swirl button

Washington denim (light blue) with silver heart button

Tips

Most of my tips and comments on this pattern can be found at my previous post. However, a few of my techniques have changed since then. 

The pattern is easily adjustable to achieve the right size

The first thing I noticed making these hats was that I crochet more loosely now compared to a few months ago. I consider this a good sign since I used to crochet too tightly. Strangely, even though the stitches are looser, the gauge remained the same, at least at the checkpoints provided in the pattern. Despite this, the "adult small" size that once fit me perfectly turned out too loose this time around (this is the size I made the first hat). To fix this, I didn't remake the entire hat, but rather omitted one row (prior to starting the visor) and made a point to crochet the last two single crochet rows more tightly than the rest (these rows act as a sort of band that fits around the forehead, so they can make up for looseness on the rest of the head). 
 
I was also able to adjust the size by making the strap adjustable. To do this, rather than sewing it directly to the hat, I simply attached it by fastening it to the buttons. This way, size can be adjusted by changing the hole (between two stitches) in which the button is placed.

For the second hat, I bypassed all of these stop-gap measures by simply using the next lower size pattern that was provided. This worked well, although the visor seemed a tiny bit too narrow for an adult's face, so I combined the adult size visor with the young-adult sized hat.

It is cleaner to change colors with a simple knot

As I described in a previous post, I have decided that rather than crocheting over the loose ends, it looks better to just tie a knot when changing colors. I find this method easier to hide the ends, and the wrong colors don't peek through in spots between the stitches.

Don't pay full price for buttons

I absolutely love the buttons I chose. The antique silver swirl complements Seattle's colors very well. If you buy these buttons from Jo-Ann, I would recommend using a 40%-off coupon, rather than paying full price. 

How to thread bulky yarn through small shank holes

The holes of both sets of buttons are pretty small, so I ended up separating the four strands of the yarn (four strands are combined to make the bulky size) and threading a single strand through the button, then rejoining that strand to the other four to secure the button to the hat and weave in the ends. I think that keeping all four strands together when weaving in the loose ends makes it much more secure than weaving in a thin strand. I used thread to get the thin strand of yarn through the button hole (see my tips and techniques page for a link describing this technique).

Key Lime is probably a better match for Seattle green

Finally, the only thing that is not perfect about these hats is the Monterey Green. It is a little too yellow and not vivid enough to truly match the Seattle team colors, but this is all I could find in my local shop. If I were to order the green online, then I would probably try Lion Brand's Key Lime (Hometown USA) instead. 

 

I have been informed that the Seahawks will be in the playoffs, which is a perfect excuse to crochet this hat now! (I also hear that you can never have too many fan hats.) Go Hawks!

Whose team colors will you choose to make your customized crochet fan hat?

Bulky Santa Elf Hat - Crochet Pattern

An adorable Santa hat for babies was the very first thing that inspired me to learn to crochet. I learned how to crochet in time to attempt to make a Santa hat for my baby last December. Although I started a Santa hat, I never finished it. The pattern I was using called for a 3.25mm hook and single crochet stitches throughout the hat. At the time, I was crocheting too tightly (so my gauge was off) and I crocheted slowly (still do). Needless to say, the project did not progress very quickly. My first Santa hat is currently hibernating and I no longer need it for my own child. I don't need it this year because I designed my very own Santa hat that is very fast and easy to work up!

Based on my previous experience, I set out to design a hat that could be completed in the shortest amount of time possible. Therefore, I started with a super bulky yarn and used double crochet instead of single crochet stitches. After perfecting the pattern, I was able to complete the entire hat in about an hour! This Santa hat pattern has a couple of special features, including a folded brim and long tail that can be made in any length to look more like an elf hat than the traditional Santa hat style, if desired. This is my first hat pattern and I think it turned out pretty cute. This Santa hat pattern is so fast and easy that I had time to make one for everyone in the family! I made it in three sizes: toddler, child, and adult.

Bulky Santa Elf Hat Crochet Pattern

Experience rating

• Easy

Materials

• Hook: 7mm
• Super Bulky (#6) yarn (I used Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn)
• Cincinnati red (2 skeins)
• I required a small amount more than one skein for each hat (about 1.5 rows worth); if you are making 3 hats, then 4 skeins should be sufficient
• Make sure to match lot numbers!
• New York white (1 skein)
• 1 skein for each hat (the pompom uses a lot of yarn)

•  Large tapestry needle

• Additional supplies needed for pompom
• White worsted weight (#4) 100% cotton yarn
• I used Lily Sugar'n Cream
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• st(s): stitch(es)
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• dc: double crochet
• dc inc: double crochet increase (place two dc sts in next st) 
• blo: back loop only
• (dc 4, dc inc) x 3: repeat the instructions inside parentheses 3 times
• lp(s): loop(s)
• yo: yarn over

Gauge and final dimensions

Gauge

• 3 dc = 1 inch (~3cm)
• 1 row = 0.75 inch (~2cm)

Dimensions (" = inches)

Note: this hat stretches. Size range includes actual circumference plus 2 inches. 

• Dimensions that are same for all sizes
  
• brim height: 2"
• tail length: 8"
• pompom diameter: 4"

•  Toddler (fits ~18-20" head)
• width: 8.75"
• height to beginning of tail including brim: 7.5"

• Child (fits ~20-22" head)
• width: 9.75"
• height to beginning of tail including brim: 8"

• Adult (fits ~23-25" head)
• width: 11.5"
• height to beginning of tail including brim: 8"  

General instructions

Pattern is worked in the round. Turning chains are not counted in the total stitch count. The first stitch of each row should be worked in the same stitch as the turning chain. The sl st at the end of each row is worked into the first dc of the same row. In other words, after making the turning chain, just pretend that it isn't there.

Pattern 

Size TODDLER 

Tail (toddler; same for all sizes)

• Round 1: Magic circle, ch1, sc 5 in magic circle, sl st to first sc (5 sts)
• Round 2: Ch2, dc 5 (remember that the first dc always goes in the same st as the turning chain), sl st to first dc (5 sts)
• Round 3: Ch2, dc 4, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (6 sts)
• Round 4: Ch2, dc 5, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (7 sts)
• Round 5: Ch2, dc 6, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (8 sts)
• Round 6: Ch2, dc 7, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (9 sts)
• Round 7: Ch2, dc 8, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (10 sts)
• Round 8: Ch2, dc 9, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (11 sts)
• Round 9: Ch2, dc 10, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (12 sts)
• Round 10: Ch2, dc 11, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (13 sts)     

Hat (toddler)

• Round 11: Ch2, dc 5, dc inc, dc 6, dc inc, sl st to first dc (15 sts) 
• Round 12: Ch2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 3, sl st to first dc (18 sts)
• Round 13: Ch2, (dc 3, dc inc) x 2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 2, sl st to first dc (22 sts) 
• Round 14: Ch2, (dc 3, dc inc) x 3, (dc 4, dc inc) x 2, sl st to first dc (27 sts)
• Round 15: Ch 2, (dc 3, dc inc) x 3, (dc 4, dc inc) x 3, sl st to first dc (33 sts)  
• Round 16: Ch 2, dc 3, (dc 3, dc inc) x 5, (dc 4, dc inc) x 2, sl st to first dc (40 sts)
• Round 17: Ch2, dc in each st around (40 sts) 
• Round 18: Repeat round 17 (40 sts)
• Round 19: Repeat round 17 (40 sts)
• On last dc stitch of round 19, change to white halfway through the stitch; pull white through the two lps on the hook after the second yarn over (this makes for a very clean color change)

Brim (toddler)

• Round 20: Repeat round 17 using white yarn (40 sts)
  
• Round 21: Repeat round 17 using white yarn (40 sts)
• Round 22: Ch1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (40 sts) 
• Round 23: Ch2, TURN, dc in blo of last dc of round 22 and each st around (Note: to achieve 40 sts, place an additional dc in the blo of the sl st used to join the two ends of round 22), sl st in both lps of first dc of round 23 (40 sts)
• Round 24: Ch2, dc in each st around (40 sts)
• Round 25: Ch1, sc in each st around, bind off after last sc (before final sl st), use an invisible join to finish the round, weave in loose end (40 sts) 

Working in back loops only of round 22 creates a natural spot to fold the brim. When the brim is folded, there should be an equal number of rounds of white on the inside and outside of the fold. All stitches should be "right side out" to match the red part of the hat. 

Pompom (toddler; same for all sizes)

This is a modified version based on tips from various sites. The sites with the original photo tutorial/tips are referenced in the links. My additional modifications to make a secure pompom using super bulky yarn are depicted in the numbered photos below.

• Start with two empty toilet paper rolls placed side by side 
• Wrap white yarn (the same yarn that was used for the brim) around both rolls 60 times
  
• Use white worsted weight cotton yarn to tie the beginning of a surgeon's knot (wrap one strand around the other 4 times; photo #1) on each of the two sides (make a separate knot around 30 strands of each side of the pompom; indicated by arrows in photo #2)
• Remove the yarn from the toilet paper rolls, pull each knot as tightly as possible, tie an additional overhand knot to secure each knot
• Cut down the middle of each side of the pompom between the two knots (cut along black lines shown in photo #3)
  
• Tie the two separate pieces together with a double overhand knot. There will be four strands of yarn, but treat the two strands of yarn from each half of the pompom as one strand (photo #4)
• Trim ends using sharp scissors to make a round ball   
• There will be four loose ends of worsted weight yarn. Hold the two ends together from each side. Weave two adjacent strands (held together as one) down through the magic circle and around a single crochet stitch from round 1. Do the same for the other two strands on the opposite side. Tie a tight double overhand knot. Weave loose ends into the tip of the hat tail and lose them inside the hat (no need to weave them in after they are inside the hat).
  

Size CHILD

Tail (child; rounds 1-10 same for all sizes)

• Round 1: Magic circle, ch1, sc 5 in magic circle, sl st to first sc (5 sts)
• Round 2: Ch2, dc 5 (remember that the first dc always goes in the same st as the turning chain), sl st to first dc (5 sts)
• Round 3: Ch2, dc 4, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (6 sts)
• Round 4: Ch2, dc 5, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (7 sts)
• Round 5: Ch2, dc 6, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (8 sts)
• Round 6: Ch2, dc 7, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (9 sts)
• Round 7: Ch2, dc 8, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (10 sts)
• Round 8: Ch2, dc 9, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (11 sts)
• Round 9: Ch2, dc 10, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (12 sts)
• Round 10: Ch2, dc 11, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (13 sts)   
• Round 11: Ch2, dc 12, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (14 sts)  

Hat (child)

• Round 12: Ch2, (dc 6, dc inc) x 2, sl st to first dc (16 sts) 
• Round 13: Ch2, dc 1, (dc 4, dc inc) x 3, sl st to first dc (19 sts)
• Round 14: Ch2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 3, dc 3, dc inc, sl st to first dc (23 sts) 
• Round 15: Ch2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 3, (dc 3, dc inc) x 2, sl st to first dc (28 sts)
• Round 16: Ch 2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 4, (dc 3, dc inc) x 2, sl st to first dc (34 sts)  
• Round 17: Ch 2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 6, dc 3, dc inc, sl st to first dc (41 sts)
• Round 18: Ch2, dc 19, dc inc, dc 20, dc inc (43 sts) 
• Round 19: Ch2, dc in each st around (43 sts)
• Round 20: Repeat round 19 (43 sts)
• Round 21: Repeat round 19 (43 sts)
• On last dc stitch of round 21, change to white halfway through the stitch; pull white through the two lps on the hook after the second yarn over (this makes for a very clean color change)

Brim (child)

• Round 22: Repeat round 19 using white yarn (43 sts)
  
• Round 23: Repeat round 19 using white yarn (43 sts)
• Round 24: Ch1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (43 sts) 
• Round 25: Ch2, TURN, dc in blo of last dc of round 24 and each st around (Note: to achieve 43 sts, place an additional dc in the blo of the sl st used to join the two ends of round 24), sl st in both lps of first dc of round 25 (43 sts)
• Round 26: Ch2, dc in each st around (43 sts)
• Round 27: Ch1, sc in each st around, bind off after last sc (before final sl st), use an invisible join to finish the round, weave in loose end (43 sts)  

Working in back loops only of round 24 creates a natural spot to fold the brim. When the brim is folded, there should be an equal number of rounds of white on the inside and outside of the fold. All stitches should be "right side out" to match the red part of the hat.

 

Pompom (child; same for all sizes)

• See instructions under toddler pattern

Size ADULT 

Tail (adult; rounds 1-10 same for all sizes)

• Round 1: Magic circle, ch1, sc 5 in magic circle, sl st to first sc (5 sts)
• Round 2: Ch2, dc 5 (remember that the first dc always goes in the same st as the turning chain), sl st to first dc (5 sts)
• Round 3: Ch2, dc 4, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (6 sts)
• Round 4: Ch2, dc 5, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (7 sts)
• Round 5: Ch2, dc 6, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (8 sts)
• Round 6: Ch2, dc 7, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (9 sts)
• Round 7: Ch2, dc 8, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (10 sts)
• Round 8: Ch2, dc 9, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (11 sts)
• Round 9: Ch2, dc 10, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (12 sts)
• Round 10: Ch2, dc 11, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (13 sts)   
• Round 11: Ch2, dc 12, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (14 sts)  
• Round 12: Ch2, dc 13, dc inc in last st, sl st to first dc (15 sts)   

Hat (adult)

• Round 13: Ch2, dc 6, dc inc, dc 7, dc inc, sl st to first dc (17 sts) 
• Round 14: Ch2, (dc 5, dc inc) x 2, dc 4, dc inc, sl st to first dc (20 sts)
• Round 15: Ch2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 4, sl st to first dc (24 sts) 
• Round 16: Ch2, dc 3, dc inc, (dc 4, dc inc) x 4, sl st to first dc (29 sts)
• Round 17: Ch2, dc 3, dc inc, (dc 4, dc inc) x 5, sl st to first dc (35 sts) 
• Round 18: Ch2, (dc 4, dc inc) x 7, sl st to first dc (42 sts)
• Round 19: Ch2, (dc 5, dc inc) x 7, sl st to first dc (49 sts)
• Round 20: Ch2, dc in each st around (49 sts) 
• Round 21: Repeat round 20 (49 sts)
• Round 22: Repeat round 20 (49 sts)
• On last dc stitch of round 22, change to white halfway through the stitch; pull white through the two lps on the hook after the second yarn over (this makes for a very clean color change)

Brim (adult)

• Round 23: Repeat round 20 using white yarn (49 sts)
  
• Round 24: Repeat round 20 using white yarn (49 sts)
• Round 25: Ch1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (49 sts) 
• Round 26: Ch2, TURN, dc in blo of last dc of round 25 and each st around (Note: to achieve 49 sts, place an additional dc in the blo of the sl st used to join the two ends of round 25), sl st in both lps of first dc of round 26 (49 sts)
• Round 27: Ch2, dc in each st around (49 sts)
• Round 28: Ch1, sc in each st around, bind off after last sc (before final sl st), use an invisible join to finish the round, weave in loose end (49 sts)  

Working in back loops only of round 25 creates a natural spot to fold the brim. When the brim is folded, there should be an equal number of rounds of white on the inside and outside of the fold. All stitches should be "right side out" to match the red part of the hat.

Pompom (adult; same for all sizes)

• See instructions under toddler pattern

 

Tips 

Matching lot numbers is important!

I made a mistake by not paying attention to lot numbers when buying multiple skeins of red yarn. There is definitely a color difference between some skeins with different lot numbers (this difference may not be very noticeable between some lots, but significant between others). All sizes of this hat require slightly more than one skein of red yarn to complete. Because I had been working under less-than-ideal lighting conditions, I didn't notice the mismatched rows until after making my first two hats. Although the color difference was subtle, it bothered me, so I "frogged" (ripped out the stitches) the white brim, excised the mismatched red parts, and remade those parts using the correctly matched yarn (after making a trip to my local craft store to exchange the yarn; luckily, the correct lot numbers were still available at the store). If you look closely in some of the photos, there is a color difference in the largest hat compared to the smaller two hats, which is OK with me as long as the same color is used within a given hat.

Changing yarn colors

Since I first learned to crochet, I've always thought that the "right" way to change colors is to avoid making knots and just crochet over the loose ends after switching to a new color of yarn. However, the ends always stick out when I use this method with super bulky yarn. This time, I just tied the ends together in a knot to join two different colors and it was much easier to hide the loose ends (I just made sure to keep them on the inside of the hat). Also, making the color change on the second yarn over of the last double crochet makes a very clean, unnoticeable color change (this is also noted in the pattern).

Pompom

The pompom was based on tips from other sites, but I added some of my own modifications to make a more secure pompom using super bulky yarn. Other sites (see above links) suggested using a surgeon's knot and a smaller sized yarn to tie the pompom. While these techniques are very useful, my pompom was still pretty loose when I wrapped the yarn around the toilet paper rolls 60 times. So I did some experimenting to try and get an even more secure pompom.

I found that cotton (worsted weight) grips the 100% acrylic super bulky yarn very well, making it easier to tighten the knot and keep it from loosening. Additionally, by tying each half of the pompom separately, I effectively reduced the total number of strands that needed to be tied to 30 (half of 60), thus allowing for a tighter knot. I made the two pieces from a single wraparound (rather than making two completely separate pompoms) so that the sides would fit perfectly together to make a round ball. These techniques made for a very secure, super fluffy pompom. Yes, a determined toddler can still pull out the strands, but the super bulky yarn won't be falling out on its own when you secure the pompom this way.

I hope to get a lot of use out of these super bulky Santa hats this Christmas season, starting with our tree hunt next weekend! The hats are very warm so they will be perfect for the cold weather. 

Where will you be wearing your super bulky, super adorable, super warm 

Santa elf hat this holiday season?