Sunday, September 20, 2015

Plush Cross Crochet Pattern

When my kids were baptized, I gave them personalized crosses to hang on the wall above their beds. They are wooden and quite beautiful, but a bit costly. I recently realized I could use my newfound crochet skills to make a three-dimensional plush crochet cross to hang on the wall that would be quite adorable for a baby or young child's room. So I set out to design a simple cross that is flat on the front and back and can be easily hung on a wall.

plush cross crochet pattern

Plush Cross Crochet Pattern

Supplies

  • Worsted weight yarn in two colors 
    • I used Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic) in White and Pagoda and only needed small amounts
  • Hook size 3.5mm (E)
  • Stuffing (I used polyester fiberfill, but there are more eco-friendly stuffing options out there...)
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • Stitch markers

Gauge and dimensions

   Gauge
  • 5 sc stitches = 1 inch
  • 5 sc rows = 1 inch
   Final dimensions
  • Arm/head length = 2 inches
  • Body length = 4 inches
  • Total length (height) = 7 inches
  • Total width = 5 inches
  • Depth = 1 inch

 Abbreviations

  • MC: main color (white)
  • CC: contrasting color (pagoda)
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • ch: chain
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • sc 3 means single crochet in each of the next three stitches
  • 3 sc means place 3 single crochet stitches in the next stitch  

Notes

  • This cross is made of three separate pieces joined using a single crochet border, then stuffed 
  • When joining to the side with the foundation chain, place hook under both the foundation chain loop and the bottom loop of the single crochet stitch below it (see photo below)
Place hook under two loops (not just the chain) when adding border to foundation chain

 

Pattern

Front and back pieces of cross (make two identical pieces)

Vertical piece
  • Ch 38
  • front and back pieces of crochet cross
    Front and back pieces
  • Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and to the end, ch 1, turn (37 sts)
  • Row 2: sc in 1st st and to the end, ch1, turn (37 sts)
  • Rows 3-5: repeat row 2
  • Fasten off at end of row 5 and weave in ends

Arm of cross*
  • In 11th stitch from one end of vertical piece, join a new strand of MC yarn by pulling new strand through and ch 1
  • Row 1: (working over loose end), in same stitch that you joined the yarn, sc 1 and in next 4 sts, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
  • Row 2: sc 5, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
  • Rows 3-10: Repeat row 2
  • Fasten off at end of row 10 and weave in loose ends

*Make an identical arm on opposite side
Note: when adding arm to the side with the foundation chain, pull yarn through two loops, the chain loop and bottom loop of sc (see photo above)

Center strip (joins front and back pieces)

Note: one continuous piece will go around the entire cross
  • Ch 125
  • Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and to the end of chain, ch 1, turn (124 sts)
  • Row 2: sc in 1st st and to the end of row (124 sts)
  • Row 3: repeat row 2 (124 sts)
  • Fasten off and weave in one of the loose ends, but leave enough length on the other loose end for sewing the two edges of the strip together (will do this later)
  • Mark the following stitches from one end: 
    • 10, 15, 25, 35, 40, 50, 60, 65, 75, 97, 102 (end of strip is stitch 124)

center piece of cross with stitch markers
Center strip with stitch markers separating sections that will be each segment of the finished piece. See photo below for corresponding labels on front piece of cross

 Assembly

  • Line up center piece and front face of cross so that the outside of the cross is facing up,the cross face is closest to you, and the joining center strip is behind the cross face (this arrangement will ensure that the sc border faces to the front of the cross)
  • Starting at the bottom inside corner of the right arm (see photo), join CC yarn through both pieces and ch 1 (Note: loose ends of front face of cross should be facing away from you)
  • General instructions for joining border
    • Join the two pieces together with sc evenly around in both pieces: be sure to place hook through both loops of sc sts or in loop of chain plus bottom loop of sc st for the sides with the foundation chain (see above photo)
    • When adding a sc stitch to the end of a row, each row gets one sc
    • Crochet over the loose end of CC yarn for several stitches when the strand is first joined
    • Place 3 sc in each outside marked corner and one sc in each inside marked corner
    • Place one sl st in the stitch immediately following each inside marked corner
  • Specific pattern for joining border
    • Beginning at the inside corner marked in the photo below (between sections A and L), sl st, sc 8, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 10, sl st, sc 8, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 10, sl st, sc 8, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 10, sl st, sc 21, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 21 (140 sts)
    • Fasten off,  join to first sc by weaving under front post and weave in end along the CC border 
front piece of plush cross
Segments corresponding to marked center strip (see photo above)

    center piece joined to one side of cross
    Cross (inside view) after joining front face to center strip and sewing ends of strip to one another
  • After completely joining the center piece to the front side of the cross, use the long end of yarn that you left to sew the two ends of the strip together (white)**. Next, line up the back face of the cross with the center strip and join a new strand of CC (pagoda) on this side as described above (stitch markers are helpful to ensure placing the corners in the correct spots). I joined the second strand of CC yarn at the opposite corner (between sections I and J)  in order to minimize bulkiness from the join
    • **Alternatively, after joining the center piece to one side, continue with the same strand of yarn (do not fasten off), arrange the two ends of the center piece so that you are working on the inside, sl st to join the ends (seam will be on the INSIDE), join with a sl st to the first st at the corner and sc around as above. (This just eliminates some of the loose ends that you otherwise need to weave in.)
  • When about 10 stitches are left, stuff, then stitch closed; bind off at last stitch, then sew to connect to front post of 1st stitch of CC (pagoda), weave in loose end and hide end in stuffing

opening for stuffing plush cross
Opening used to stuff the cross

Tips


This is a very simple pattern, but even something this easy can pose challenges. My first tip is to make sure the two faces (front and back) are identical, including leaving the loose ends sticking out just a little from the same side after weaving them in (I recommend this to ensure the ends don't slide out and end up on the wrong side). When you assemble the front and back pieces, place them as mirror images so that the foundation chain of one is opposite of the foundation chain of the other. This just keeps everything more balanced and the loose ends will end up on the inside for both pieces.


My other tips are noted above, but just to reiterate, make sure the side that you want the pretty border to face (e.g., the front piece) is facing up and closest to you when working the border; otherwise, the top loops of the border will face towards the center strip and not be as pretty. Stitch markers are extremely helpful to make sure the corners are in the right spots and also make sure you don't have too much or too little of the center strip left over when you reach the end. I ran out of stitch markers, so I just used pieces of red yarn (see photo above). I originally marked one side, then recounted and marked the second side of the strip when I was ready to add the second contrasting color border. To be honest, the stitch markers that I used are so cheaply made that several broke in a row. This was very annoying, but for $1, maybe it's still worth it. When they don't break, they are very nice to have for a project like this. 

A final note: when I used a  contrasting border for the edging, the white poked through slightly at the corners. This was mostly a problem at the spots where there was a knot (i.e., beginning or end of a piece). To completely avoid this issue, consider making the entire cross using only one color. 

So there you have it, an adorable plush crochet cross to hang on the wall of a child's room!

crochet plush cross
I have more plans for adorning this cross, so stay tuned for a follow-up blog post. Until then, what adornments would you add?
 

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